I use Ilford rapid fixer with no hardener. The modern name brand films by kodak and fuji are really hard to damage. The rubber is more pliable on an automotive wiper blade. I scratched emulsion with my 'pro' store bought squeegee. Never had any watermarks or streaks from doing this.Ī windshield wiper blade would be better than the cheap rubber squeegees the photo stores sell. I don't wipe, but just leave the film to dry on its own.
The rinse I reuse until it starts looking grungy. I pour that in as the final rinse, just tap the tank and let it stand for a minute or two. I premix Drywel (Fuji's brand of detergent) into a 2l bottle of water - normal water, though ours is fairly soft I believe. I always use a hardening fixer on film and a non-hardening fixer on paper so I don't really know.Īnother thought is diffusion v. Thanks, I'll try that out, possibly with the exception of the last step :0)Ĭoncerning wiping/squeegeeing of film: I would think the chance of scratches increases greatly if a non-hardening fixer is used. :)įor sheet film I hang it up by a corner and don't try to squeegee it. On this one: YMMV! If you scratch your film I didn't recommend this. After use I dump it.ģ) I use a Toyota Land Cruiser (the old '70s FJ40) windshield wiper blade but only once on each side. Here is what I do.ġ) I use a final wash with deionized or distilled water.Ģ) I mix Photoflo on the spot with one small squirt from a medicine dropper into distilled or deionized water for a 4 roll tank. The instructions on the bottle indicates far too much Photoflo. I find that soaking your film in some distilled water for about 5 minutes prior to using photo-flo helps. Thanks Luke, I knew you'd have the answer mate! I'm sure people cringe thinking about this, but I haven't had any problems with dust on my film from doing this. What I do now is fill a 500ml measuring cup with water and dip my pointer finger into my photo flo bottle and whatever sticks to my finger i stir into that 500ml of water.Īlso, I know this is a dust risk, but I roll up toilet paper and squeegee dry the shiny side of my 35mm film right after I hang it. I have found that shaking the roll and not using any type of squeegee method produces the best results.Īs per an old school photographer, the best way to clean the negs is to use a high solution (over 90%) of ETHYL alcohol. More likely beer than moisturiser on my hands :-) Dries fast and clean.Įnchanted power Moisturiser? Me? Nahhhhh
I am currently using this method for removing finger prints and anything else,works great. ( nathanial - Luke suggested using rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs. It could be the result of using moisturizer or something of that type on your hands. I was having thr discussion with my darkroom printing instructor this weekend. You guys think I should still shake the reel before I pull the film off it? I will try less photoflo with distilled water next time and let it run off on it's own. Re: squeegee - I discarded mine once it started gouging train-tracks in my film
PHOTOFLOW JOBS SKIN
What is the best way to remove smudges, skin oil, and residues from negatives and slides? I've luckily never had any scratching problems. You run the risk of scratches with the squeegee if you run into a bit of dirt while squeegeeing. Tap it on the side of the tank and squeegee the entire length of the film twice. For my final rinse of the reels I pour in my water/flo solution, pull out one reel, remove the film, dip my squeegee into the tank and swish it around. I've had more luck using less flo to more water (as Josh said) but unless I can't find it - I always use a film squeegee. I would also try distilled water, it is made to have a very low mineral content. I use a drop for 1 or 2 35mm rolls or 1 120 roll and I use 2 drops for 2x120 rolls. I think I will just stop wiping it clean with something and let it dry by itself.Īre you mixing it with Distilled or filtered water? also I mix it 1/2 of what kodak says and it works better. I am glad you mentioned this because I have been having the same problem.
I use to have the same problem, I stopped using my fingers to wipe the film and just hang dry straight from the photoflo and no more marks. Unfortunately it seems that as it dries I get a residue all over my negs that is visible in my scans and looks like the tide is coming in!! It can be wiped off but I find that scratches the negs.Īny ideas what I'm doing wrong? Do I need to use filtered water perhaps? 5ml to a litre of tap water as per the directions, and when the film is out I give it a shake to lose the big drops, and run it through pre-wetted fingers to get rid of as much of the liquid as I can. I'm using Ilford's Ilfotol as a last step in my process of b&w developing.
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